Life imitates art this season at Theory. Designer Dushane Noble found himself poring over Peter Lindbergh’s work, especially captivated by his 2016 short film with Thomas Lachambre, Walking. “The way the women were dressed was super nonchalant,” he said at Theory’s Meatpacking District showroom. “I just very much connected to this woman who feels like a born-and-bred New Yorker, super confident. She’s not trying to impress anyone—she’s just dressing for herself.”
Theory has broad appeal and a loyal customer base. Noble is tasked with ensuring those customers keep coming back. One method is by expanding the color palette. While he pulled silhouettes and attitude from Lindbergh, Noble’s colors this season came from the artist Peggy Kuiper—“Colors that feel like they’re dipped in black,” he said. Muted hues—rusty orange, pale gray-blue, and olive—are staples, though more vivid magenta (exclusive to the 2 Gansevoort capsule collection) offered a lively pop.
“What we do is so classic, and it always is the balance of taking the familiar and adding something unusual to create that more desirable element,” Noble said. Pointing to a customer-favorite blazer, he added, “Last season, spring, we had the vetiver mélange. This season, we have spice mélange—a take on the blackened mustard color.”
Silhouette switch-ups are another reliable pull. In response to more oversized outerwear and knits, Noble slimmed down a pair of the brand’s tapered trousers. “We are very much feeling the slimmer stovepipe, especially with a lot of the looser sweaters,” he said.
Theory is at its best when it pushes its boundaries. The most interesting pieces in the collection—a pair of suede chinos and a satin-nylon trench coat stuffed with down feathers—lent unexpected, elegant touches to wardrobe heroes. The satin-nylon fabrication has been in development for over a year. “It’s the first time coming to market,” Noble said. “We’re super excited.” With a brand as stable and reliable as Theory, it is gratifying to see Noble take bigger swings.
