Milan
The recent Milan Fashion Week, which ended yesterday, saw designers moving away from frivolous themes, adopting a more serious demeanor that favored investment-worthy pieces over fleeting fads. Instead of unveiling groundbreaking styles, brands reaffirmed their commitment to their well-established, marketable hallmarks. It wasn’t so much a festivity of fashion but rather a period for contemplation.
Prominent designers emphasized fashion’s potential to contribute positively amidst growing global unrest, though they remained vague on specifics.
Post-show, Miuccia Prada, alongside co-designer Raf Simons, shared that their collection stemmed from a natural desire for love and kindness in challenging times. Similarly, Donatella Versace, during a preview in her office, reflected on the necessity of bravery in today’s climate, viewing fashion as a means of promoting optimism and unity.
Julianne Moore, A$AP Rocky, and Salma Hayek were spotted in the front row at the Bottega Veneta show during Milan Fashion Week, as captured by Daniele Venturelli for WireImage/Getty Images.
Giorgio Armani, a seasoned figure in the fashion industry, shared his perspective, noting, “We aren’t changing the world, nor can we solve all its problems, but we can offer people a moment of lightness.” Meanwhile, Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy spoke more bluntly, observing, “In a world on fire, the simple act of dressing holds a very human significance… We all see the same news. It’s difficult to feel a sense of celebration at this time. Yet, there’s also a beauty in the concept of rebirth.”
Franken-style
This sentiment was prominently reflected across the collections in what could be termed as “Franken-styles”: garments that are part one thing, part another, seamlessly integrated to form a unique hybrid piece.
At Prada, what appeared to be a wool blazer at the front had a satin waistcoat back. Jonas Gustavsson/Sipa
At Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy utilized decorative pins to add unique shapes to the garments, as captured by Victor Virgile for Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images.
At Prada, a garment that looked like a wool blazer from the front revealed a satin waistcoat at the back, while skirts blended the elements of an apron and a negligee. Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta crafted a mix of silhouettes from various periods and added definition to dresses using pins. Meanwhile, at MSGM, Massimo Giorgetti drew inspiration from the catastrophic aftermath depicted in Truman Capote’s essay “La Cote Basque,” incorporating zippers that encircled the body like sutures, poised to come apart at any moment.
The evolution of the twinset
The distorted theme was evident in the contorted knitwear presented by Ferragamo, Fendi, Tod’s, and Prada, signaling a new phase in the development of the twinset. The upcoming season takes a maximalist approach to knitwear, with cardigans and sweaters casually thrown on and layered in a seemingly haphazard yet deliberate manner.
Elevated knitwear loomed large at Ferragamo. Jacopo Raule/Getty Images
Party feet
Amid the abundance of black leather boots prevalent in many collections, the standout footwear trend this season is characterized by lavish embellishments. Dolce & Gabbana showcased boots adorned with dynamic ostrich feathers, while Jil Sander presented stilettos enveloped in sleek black goat hair. Over at Tod’s, new creative director Matteo Tamburini revamped the iconic Gommino driving shoe with comprehensive leather tassel details.
At Tod’s, new creative director Matteo Tamburini gave the famous Gommino driving shoe a makeover with all-over leather tassels. Jacopo Raule/Getty Images
1980s redux
Once dismissed as the era in fashion that many chose to overlook, the 1980s are gradually making a comeback on the fashion scene. This resurgence was sparked when Kim Jones stumbled upon a 1984 sketch by Karl Lagerfeld in the Fendi archives, leading him on a nostalgic journey inspired by the New Romantics and the distinctive styles of Leigh Bowery, Judy Blame, and Princess Julia. This influence was evident in his recent show, which featured unconventional polka dots and a nuanced tribute to his hometown, London. Jones remarked, “London was so influential in the world, influencing everyone designing at the time.”
A model with ’80s inspired hair and make-up at Versace. Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images
Actor Anne Hathaway was seen wearing one of Versace’s ruched leather outfits while sitting front row, as captured by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images.
Giorgio Armani kicked off his show by bringing back his 1980s muse, Gina di Bernardo, who had been featured in numerous campaigns by the renowned photographer Aldo Fallai for the brand during that era, to walk the runway. Meanwhile, Donatella Versace revived the blazer she originally designed for musician Prince, aimed at enhancing his stature with broad shoulders and a narrow waist, as she noted, “something that would make him look taller.”
Leather coats get a new lease of life
Despite being a traditional winter style, it has been prominently featured this season across various brands — including Ferragamo, Tom Ford, Bottega Veneta, Versace, and Diesel, among others. Following the trend set by the menswear collections in January, the prevailing look is long, sleek, and devoid of embellishments, drawing inspiration from the Matrix. This trend marks a continuation of the minimalist aesthetic seen earlier in the year.
There were plenty of long line, Matrix-insired leather coats on the runway at Milan. Giovanni Giannoni/WWD/Getty Images
These two colorful numbers were seen at Versace. Giovanni Giannoni/WWD/Getty Images
As per Bottega Veneta: “Honesty in materiality and silhouette means the clothing is no longer pretending to be something other than what it really is: There is… comfort and protection in supple leather.”
Embracing the darkness
Except for the occasional bursts of scarlet leather, the color scheme at Milan Fashion Week for Fall-Winter 2024 was predominantly dark and practical, featuring deep shades of khaki and olive green. These tones were particularly striking in the collections from Ferragamo and Tod’s.
A rich, mossy khaki hue was prominently featured on various runways, including Ferragamo, as captured by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images.
At MaxMara, known for its signature camel color, Creative Director Ian Griffiths took a notably different approach, prioritizing silhouette over color. Backstage, he expressed the liberation he felt by setting aside the brand’s camel palette for a season: “It was good to free myself of camel for a season, and I couldn’t have done these clothes in camel,” he remarked. “We’re not abandoning it; we’re just giving it a rest, and it’s a rest for me, too.”
The trend for denim this coming season is also leaning towards darker shades. The focus will be on clean-cut, precisely pressed double selvedge-style denim.
Craft over clickbait
Throughout the series of fashion shows, there was a noticeable emphasis on non-confrontational fashion, with the exception being the final show at Avavav, where models were met with garbage thrown on the runway. This act was part of the brand’s strategy to embrace its negative reviews, highlighted by a continuous stream of commentary displayed on screens flanking the stage. Amidst this backdrop, a mood of preservation was palpable. Milanese designers concentrated on the refinement of their craft rather than seeking sensationalism, aiming not to reinvent fashion but rather to maintain its momentum with integrity and quality.
At the Avavav fashion show, models navigated a runway littered with trash, while large screens on both sides showcased snippets from past negative reviews of the shows, as captured by Marco M. Mantovani/Getty Images.
Despite this, the sentiment remains: “We aren’t changing the world, nor can we solve the world’s problems, but we can offer people a moment of lightness.”
Giorgio Armani
A focus on dark tones also extended to denim (above, at Versace), where deep washes and clean cuts were the order of the season. Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
Gigi Hadid walked for Versace,. Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
Solange Knowles sat front row at Ferragamo. Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images
There is something very human in the simple act of dressing.
Matthieu Blazy
Dark shades with delicate bejewelled embellishments on the runway at Giorgio Armani. Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD/Getty Images
Actor Hari Nef was also sat front row at Ferragamo, in head-to-toe green leather. Riccardo Giordano/IPA/Sipa
Cate Blanchett and Giorgio Armani at the latter’s Milan catwalk show. Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD/Getty Images
At Fendi, Kim Jones showcased irregular polka dots, bodysuits, armwarmers and other subtle nods to his native London in the 1980s. Jacopo Raule/Getty Images
Dark colors also dominated at Giorgio Armani this season. Gabriel Bouys/AFP/Getty Images
Kim Jones at Fendi also got the dark green memo. Jacopo Raule/Getty Images
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